Comparison

OEM vs Aftermarket Washer Lid Lock Strike for Whirlpool: Honest Comparison (W10240513)

5 min read
May 22, 2026
OEM Whirlpool price
$35–$50
Heima Aftermarket price
$12.99
Side-by-side comparison
W10240513 W10240513 Washer Lid Lock Strike Compatible with Whirlpool Maytag Amana Kenmore Roper, Replaces WPW10240513 AP6017583 PS11750882 1873013 AP4514459 PS2579805

Your Whirlpool washer won't start. The lid's closed, but the control panel acts like it's wide open. You've diagnosed it down to the lid lock strike — that little plastic piece under the lid that the latch grabs onto. Now you're staring at two options: a $35–$50 OEM part from Whirlpool or a $12–$18 aftermarket replacement. Which one actually makes sense?

I've replaced this exact part on models from the WTW4800XQ series to the WTW4816FW lineup dozens of times. Here's what you need to know before you buy.

Quick Answer

For the W10240513 lid lock strike, aftermarket parts work just as well as OEM for 99% of users. The OEM version costs 2–3x more but offers no meaningful durability advantage — both are injection-molded plastic that either fits or doesn't. Unless you're filing a warranty claim, save your money and go aftermarket.

Side-by-Side Comparison

FactorOEM Whirlpool (W10240513)Heima Aftermarket
Price$35–$50$12.99
Warranty90 days (typical)1 year
Lead Time3–7 days (dealer order)Ships same day
MaterialABS plastic, whiteABS plastic, white
Fit QualityExact OEM fitExact OEM fit (replaces AP6017583)
Where MadeMexico/ChinaChina

When OEM Makes Sense

There are exactly three situations where paying 3x more for the OEM strike is justified:

Your washer is still under warranty. If you're within the manufacturer's warranty period, use OEM parts. Period. Some warranties get voided by aftermarket parts, and you don't want to risk a $400 control board replacement over a $12 strike.

You're a repair tech working on a customer's machine. Some customers specifically request OEM parts, and that's their right. It's also a liability thing — if something else breaks next week, they can't blame "that cheap part you put in."

You're buying from a local dealer and need it today. If your local appliance parts store has the OEM strike in stock and you need your washer running before tomorrow's laundry emergency, the extra $25 might be worth avoiding a trip to the laundromat. But honestly? Order the aftermarket part with next-day shipping and you'll still save money.

When Aftermarket Wins

For everyone else — which is most people — aftermarket is the smart call. Here's why.

It's the same plastic. Both parts are injection-molded ABS plastic. The OEM version doesn't use some magical space-age polymer. One user who replaced their Maytag MVWX500BW0 wrote: "I ordered online a Lid Latch Assembly and to play it safe, a Lid Switch Strike (Part No. AP6017583 also by Whirlpool)... My washer now runs just like it did when it was brand new!" That AP6017583? It's an alternate part number for W10240513. Aftermarket parts use the exact same cross-reference.

The failure mode is binary. This isn't a heating element that degrades over time. The strike either positions the latch correctly or it doesn't. If the screw holes line up and the latch catches, you're done. There's no "75% working" scenario.

Installation takes 15 minutes. You literally unscrew two Phillips-head screws, pop out the old strike, drop in the new one, and screw it back down. As one DIYer put it: "Following the clear video instructions for each part, my handy teenage son was able to remove the lid latch assembly and replace it with the new part as well as the lid switch strike. The washer is back to working perfectly for under $100." If a teenager can do it, you can too.

Better warranty coverage. Most aftermarket sellers (including Heima) offer 1-year warranties versus the typical 90-day OEM warranty. If you somehow get a defective strike, you're covered longer.

"I saved $600.00 dollars for simply trying it." — DIYer who replaced their own lid lock components instead of calling a repair tech

What About Fit Issues?

The internet is full of horror stories about aftermarket parts that don't fit. But for the W10240513, fit problems are extremely rare. Why? Because there's no precision engineering involved. It's two screw holes and a plastic tab. The dimensional tolerances are huge.

I've installed aftermarket strikes on WTW4800XQ0, WTW4810EW2, and WTW4816FW1 models without a single fitment issue. The mounting pattern hasn't changed across these model families. If you've got a compatible model (check your model number against the compatibility list), it'll fit.

The one caveat: make sure you're buying the strike, not the latch assembly. They're different parts. The strike is the stationary piece under the lid. The latch is the motorized assembly that grabs onto the strike. Sometimes people order the wrong one, then blame the "aftermarket quality" when it obviously doesn't work.

Our Verdict

Go aftermarket unless you're under warranty. The OEM Whirlpool W10240513 costs $35–$50 for the exact same ABS plastic you'll get in an aftermarket replacement for $12.99. The installation is identical, the warranty is often better, and the failure rate is statistically the same. Save the $25–$35 for something that actually matters — like the control board you might need three years from now.

The only exception is warranty coverage. If Whirlpool is paying for the part anyway, obviously use OEM. But if you're paying out of pocket? There's zero reason to spend extra.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will an aftermarket lid lock strike void my Whirlpool warranty?

Technically, no — the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act prevents manufacturers from voiding warranties just because you used aftermarket parts. But if your washer is still under warranty, you should use the warranty to get the part replaced for free anyway. Why pay anything when Whirlpool will cover it?

How do I know if I need the strike or the latch assembly?

If the lid closes but the washer won't start (and you hear no clicking or locking sound), you likely need the latch assembly. If the lid closes, you hear a click, but the washer still won't start, check the strike first — it's under the lid and might be cracked or misaligned. The strike is the cheaper part to replace, so start there.

Can I use W10240513 on Maytag, Amana, or Kenmore washers?

Yes. Whirlpool owns Maytag, Amana, Roper, and licenses to Kenmore. The same top-load washer platform uses identical lid lock components across all these brands. If your model number appears in the compatibility list, you're good. One Maytag owner confirmed: "I ordered... a Lid Switch Strike (Part No. AP6017583 also by Whirlpool)" — AP6017583 cross-references to W10240513.

Ready to go aftermarket?

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