KitchenAid Oven Won't Broil or Heat — 4 Causes & How to Fix

You're preheating for broil, waiting the usual 10 minutes, and... nothing. The oven cavity stays cold, or you're getting barely enough heat to warm a piece of bread. On models like the KESA907PSS00 and KEMS378SSS00, this almost always points to a failed broil element — but there are three other causes that can fool you into buying the wrong part.

The broil element (part WP9760774) is that exposed coil across the top of your oven cavity. When it's working, it glows cherry red within 60-90 seconds. When it's not, you'll notice uneven heating during baking, extended cook times, or complete failure during broil mode.

Quick Symptom Check

• Element won't heat at all: Most likely a burned-out element or faulty relay board
• Little to no heat when broiling: Element failure or weak power supply (check voltage)
• Little to no heat when baking: Could be bake element, but broil element assists — test both
• Oven not heating evenly: Partial element failure or damaged element mounting
• Visible breaks or blistering on element coil: Element failure confirmed

Cause #1: Burned-Out Broil Element (70% of Cases)

This is the most common failure on KEBS107SSS00, KESS907SSS00, and KEBS278SSS00 models. The element develops a break in the internal coil, usually after 5-8 years of use.

How to diagnose:

1. Turn off power at the breaker
2. Visually inspect the element for breaks, blisters, or separation
3. Use a multimeter set to ohms — you should see 15-50 ohms of resistance
4. Infinite resistance (OL reading) means the element is open and must be replaced

On KitchenAid models, the broil element is secured with two screws at the rear wall. You don't need to remove the entire oven — just disconnect the two wire terminals after confirming power is off.

Repair cost: $110.99 for WP9760774 element + 20 minutes of your time

Difficulty: Easy — no special tools required beyond a nut driver

Cause #2: Faulty Oven Relay Board (15% of Cases)

The relay board sends power to the broil element. If it fails, the element won't receive voltage even though it tests fine with a multimeter.

How to diagnose:

1. Test the element for continuity (should show 15-50 ohms)
2. If the element tests good, check for 240V at the element terminals during broil mode
3. No voltage present = relay board failure
4. The relay board is located behind the control panel on models like KERA807PSS01 and KEBS207SSS00

This is trickier because you're working with live voltage testing. If you're not comfortable with this, call a tech. A misdiagnosis here can cost you $300+ in unnecessary parts.

Cause #3: Weak or Damaged Wiring (10% of Cases)

High heat near the element can cause wire insulation to crack and fail. You'll see this most often on the wire connectors directly attached to the element terminals.

What to look for:

• Discolored or melted wire insulation near element terminals
• Loose or corroded spade connectors
• Burn marks on the wire nuts inside the rear panel

Replace any damaged wiring before installing a new element. Using crimp-on high-temp connectors rated for 480°F minimum.

Cause #4: Incorrect Oven Mode or Control Settings (5% of Cases)

Some KitchenAid models (like KERS807SSS00 and KDRS807SSS00) have a "convection broil" mode that uses both the broil element and convection fan. If you're in standard bake mode, the broil element won't activate — and you'll think it's broken.

Quick check:

• Press the "Broil" button specifically, not "Bake"
• Confirm the display shows "BROIL" or "HI BROIL"
• Wait 90 seconds — if the element doesn't start glowing, you have a real failure

When to Call a Pro

If you've tested the element and it shows continuity, but you're still not getting heat, you're likely dealing with a control board or wiring issue that requires live voltage testing. Most techs charge $150-200 for diagnosis, and if it's the relay board, you're looking at $250-350 installed.

However, if your visual inspection shows a broken element or your ohm test shows infinite resistance, replacing the broil element yourself is straightforward and saves you $200+ in labor.

Replacing the Broil Element (WP9760774)

1. Turn off power at the circuit breaker — not just the oven controls
2. Remove oven racks for clearance
3. Locate the two mounting screws at the rear wall (usually 1/4" hex head)
4. Gently pull the element forward to access the wire terminals
5. Disconnect the two spade connectors (note their positions)
6. Remove the old element
7. Install the new WP9760774 element in reverse order
8. Restore power and test on HI BROIL for 2 minutes

The element should glow evenly across the entire coil within 90 seconds. If only part of it glows, you may have a loose connection — shut off power and reseat the terminals.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use my oven if the broil element is broken?

Yes, but only in bake mode. The bake element at the bottom will still work. However, some recipes that require top heat (like finishing casseroles) won't brown properly. Also, without the broil element assisting during preheat, your oven will take 20-30% longer to reach temperature.

Why did my broil element burn out after only 3 years?

Frequent use of self-clean mode accelerates element wear. The extreme heat (900°F+) stresses the element coil. If you run self-clean more than twice a year, expect shorter element life. Also, voltage spikes during storms can damage elements — consider a whole-house surge protector.

Will this element work on Maytag and Jenn-Air ovens?

Yes. WP9760774 replaces 9760774, 8301514, AP6014070, and PS11747304. It's compatible with Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, and Jenn-Air wall ovens and ranges. Check the compatible models list on the product page — if your model number is there, it'll fit.