Whirlpool Gas Dryer Won't Heat — 4 Causes & How to Fix W10328463

You toss a load of wet towels into your Whirlpool WGD4815EW2, hit start, and come back 60 minutes later to find everything still damp. The drum's spinning fine. You hear the motor humming. But there's zero heat. One homeowner described it perfectly: "Gas dryer stopped heating" — and when they grabbed a multimeter, they traced the problem straight to the gas valve coils.

Gas valve coils are the electromagnetic gatekeepers that allow gas to flow to your burner. When they fail, you'll get drum rotation without any warmth. The good news? This is one of the easier gas dryer repairs, typically taking 15-30 minutes with basic hand tools.

Quick Symptom Check

Before you order parts, confirm these symptoms:

• Dryer runs but produces no heat — drum spins normally, but clothes come out cold and damp
• Flame ignites then immediately shuts off — you might see a brief flash of flame that dies within seconds
• Igniter glows orange but no flame appears — the igniter is working, but gas isn't reaching the burner
• No clicking sound from the gas valve — healthy coils make an audible click when energized

If you're seeing any combination of these, the gas valve coil kit (W10328463) is your likely culprit. This kit works across Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, and Kenmore models including WGD5000DW, MGDC465HW, WGD94HEAW0, and dozens more.

Cause #1: Failed Gas Valve Coils (Probability: 65%)

Gas valve coils are electromagnetic solenoids that open valves to allow gas flow when energized. Over time — typically 8-12 years — the copper windings inside degrade, the coil loses its magnetic strength, and it can no longer open the valve.

How to diagnose:

1. Unplug the dryer and shut off the gas supply
2. Remove the front or lower access panel (model-dependent)
3. Locate the gas valve assembly — it's connected to the burner tube
4. Set your multimeter to ohms (Ω)
5. Test each coil terminal: you should read 1000-2000 ohms
6. If you get infinite resistance or zero, the coil is dead

As one DIYer put it: "Super smart husband used multimeter to check out all the parts. Found this company to order new name brand replacement... Within three days dryer is working better than I EVER remember."

The fix: Replace both coils as a kit ($61.99 for W10328463). Even if only one tests bad, replace both — if one failed, the other isn't far behind. You'll need a 1/4" nut driver and basic screwdrivers. The coils simply unscrew from the valve body and the wire harness unplugs.

Cause #2: Faulty Flame Sensor (Probability: 20%)

The flame sensor is a small metal probe positioned near the burner flame. It confirms flame presence and keeps the gas flowing. If it's covered in carbon buildup or has failed electrically, it'll shut off gas flow within 2-3 seconds even though the coils are working fine.

How to diagnose:

• Watch the ignition sequence through the burner viewport
• If the flame ignites then immediately cuts out, suspect the sensor
• Remove the sensor (one screw) and inspect for white crusty buildup
• Test with a multimeter at room temp: should read near zero ohms

The fix: Clean the sensor tip with fine sandpaper or steel wool. If it's corroded or tests open, replace it. Flame sensors run $15-30 and install in under 10 minutes.

Cause #3: Defective Igniter (Probability: 10%)

The igniter must glow hot enough (around 2500°F) to open the gas valve circuit. If it's weak or cracked, it won't reach the necessary temperature, the gas valve coils won't energize, and you'll get no heat.

How to diagnose:

• Start a heat cycle and watch the igniter through the burner window
• It should glow bright orange within 30-45 seconds
• If it glows dim yellow or not at all, it's failed
• A good igniter draws 3.2-3.6 amps when glowing

The fix: Replace the igniter assembly. Handle carefully — they're fragile ceramic. Models like the WGD87HEDW0 and 7MWGD9270XR1 use common igniter types available for $30-50.

Cause #4: Clogged Burner Tube or Orifice (Probability: 5%)

Lint, dust, and debris can accumulate in the burner tube or gas orifice, restricting gas flow. This is more common in dryers that haven't had maintenance in 10+ years or those in dusty environments.

How to diagnose:

• Remove the burner assembly
• Shine a flashlight through the tube — you should see clear through
• Inspect the gas orifice (small brass fitting) for obstructions

The fix: Use compressed air to blow out the burner tube. Clean the orifice carefully with a soft brush — never use wire or anything that could enlarge the opening, which would affect gas pressure.

DIY Repair Steps: Replacing Gas Valve Coils

If you've confirmed the coils are bad, here's the replacement process:

1. Safety first: Unplug the dryer and turn off the gas shutoff valve
2. Access the burner: Remove the lower front panel or kickplate (typically 4-6 screws)
3. Photograph the wiring: Take a clear photo before disconnecting anything
4. Remove old coils: Unplug wire harnesses, then unscrew coils from valve body (usually 1/4" hex screws)
5. Install new coils: Mount the W10328463 coils in the same positions, reconnect wiring
6. Test the system: Turn gas back on, plug in dryer, check connections with soapy water for leaks
7. Run a test cycle: The burner should ignite within 60 seconds and maintain heat

Tools you'll need: nut drivers, Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, adjustable wrench, and a multimeter for testing. Total repair time runs 15-30 minutes for most DIYers.

When to Call a Pro

Call a professional if:

• You smell gas at any point during diagnosis or repair
• You're uncomfortable working with gas connections
• The dryer is still under warranty (DIY repairs may void it)
• You've replaced coils but still have no heat (indicates a control board or wiring issue)
• Your model requires disassembling the entire cabinet to reach the burner

Gas appliance repairs aren't inherently dangerous if you follow proper procedures, but there's no shame in hiring out. Expect to pay $150-250 for a service call plus the coil kit if you go that route.

Preventive Maintenance Tips

Extend the life of your gas valve coils:

• Clean the lint screen after every load — really
• Vacuum around the burner area annually to prevent dust buildup
• Have your dryer vent professionally cleaned every 1-2 years
• Don't overload the dryer — it stresses heating components
• Run a heat cycle monthly even if you primarily air-dry clothes

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do gas valve coils typically last?

Gas valve coils in Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore dryers typically last 8-15 years depending on usage. Dryers that run multiple loads daily will wear out coils faster than those used a few times weekly. Environmental factors like humidity and dust also play a role. The W10328463 coil kit replaces earlier part numbers WPW10328463, W10273784, W10295524, and W10311021, which all had similar lifespans.

Can I replace just one coil or do I need both?

You technically can replace just one coil, but it's not recommended. Gas dryers use two coils — one for each valve section — and they age at similar rates. If one coil has failed, the other is likely degraded and will fail soon, meaning you'll be tearing the dryer apart again in a few months. The W10328463 kit includes both coils for this reason. Replace them as a set and save yourself future hassle.

Why does my dryer igniter glow but the gas won't light?

If the igniter glows orange but the burner doesn't light, the most common cause is failed gas valve coils. The igniter's job is to heat up and signal the coils to open the gas valves. If the coils are weak or dead, they can't generate enough magnetic force to open the valves, so no gas flows despite the glowing igniter. Test the coils with a multimeter — they should read 1000-2000 ohms. Infinite resistance means they're shot and need replacing with the W10328463 kit.