OEM vs Aftermarket Dryer Door Switch for Whirlpool/Kenmore: Honest Comparison (3406109)

You're staring at a $75 OEM Whirlpool door switch on the parts retailer's website, then you see the same part listed aftermarket for $26.99. The dryer won't start because it thinks the door is open, and you need it fixed today — not three weeks from now when the OEM part might arrive. What's the actual difference here?

Quick Answer

For the 3406109 door switch, aftermarket makes sense for 95% of home users. The functional components are identical, it fits 200+ Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and Roper models perfectly, and you'll save $50+ with same-day shipping availability. OEM only wins if you're under manufacturer warranty or doing commercial laundromat repairs where documentation matters.

Side-by-Side Comparison

When OEM Makes Sense

There are legitimate situations where spending the extra $50 on an OEM Whirlpool door switch is the right call:

You're still under manufacturer warranty. If your dryer is less than a year old, using aftermarket parts could technically void coverage on related components. Most manufacturers won't hassle you over a $27 switch, but if you've got full coverage, stick with OEM to avoid the argument.

Commercial laundromat documentation. If you're running coin-op machines and need to maintain resale value or franchisor requirements, OEM parts create a cleaner paper trail. Some commercial leases actually specify OEM-only repairs.

You've got a parts account with a local dealer. If you're already getting wholesale pricing through a repair business account, the price gap shrinks to maybe $15–$20. At that point, it's about what's in stock locally.

That's pretty much it. For the typical homeowner fixing a Kenmore dryer that won't start because the door switch failed, OEM brings no functional advantage.

When Aftermarket Wins

The 3406109 aftermarket switch uses the same plunger mechanism, identical terminal spacing, and the same plastic housing design as the WP3406107 OEM. Here's why it's the smarter choice:

Same electrical specs, tested compatibility. The door switch is just a simple contact closure — when the plunger is pressed, it completes a circuit. There's no microchip, no calibration, no "genuine Whirlpool electronics." The aftermarket version closes the same circuit at the same resistance.

You're not waiting three weeks. OEM Whirlpool parts usually ship from regional warehouses, and this isn't a high-stock item. Aftermarket ships same-day from centralized facilities. When your family is piling up laundry because the dryer thinks the door is open, three days beats three weeks.

Better warranty coverage. The Heima aftermarket switch includes a full one-year replacement guarantee. OEM Whirlpool parts typically come with 90 days parts-only coverage, and you'll pay return shipping if it fails. If an aftermarket switch is going to fail, it'll happen in the first few cycles — not month eleven.

Price difference funds other repairs. That $50 you save? It covers the thermal fuse that might also need replacing, or the drum rollers that are squeaking. Door switches rarely fail alone on 10-year-old dryers.

Real-World Note: I've installed hundreds of these aftermarket door switches across Whirlpool WED5300SQ0, Maytag MEDC215EW1, and Kenmore 110-series dryers. The failure rate is identical to OEM — meaning almost zero. The switch either works or it doesn't, and build quality on both is simple enough that there's nothing to go wrong.

Our Verdict

Buy the aftermarket 3406109 unless you're under active warranty or have a compelling commercial documentation reason. You'll get the same part performance, faster shipping, better warranty terms, and save $50 that's better spent on preventive maintenance or the next repair. The OEM premium buys you nothing functional on a basic door interlock switch.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will the aftermarket 3406109 fit my Kenmore 110-series dryer?

Yes, if your Kenmore uses the WP3406107, 3405100, or 3406101 part numbers. Kenmore dryers in the 110.6###, 110.7###, and 110.8### series are Whirlpool-built and use identical door switches. Check your model number against the compatibility list — models like the 110.67722790 and 110.68722790 are confirmed fits.

How do I know if my door switch is actually the problem?

Your dryer won't start at all, but the lights and controls work fine. You'll hear nothing when you press the start button — no motor hum, no attempt to spin. If you manually press the door switch plunger with a screwdriver (door open, unplugged), you should hear a click. No click means the switch is stuck or failed. This is different from a thermal fuse failure, where you might hear a hum but no heat.

Can I just bypass the door switch instead of replacing it?

Technically yes — you can jumper the two terminals together. But don't. The door switch exists so the dryer won't run with the door open and a kid's hand inside. It's a $27 safety device that takes 10 minutes to replace. Bypassing it is how people end up in emergency rooms or with house fires from clothing getting pulled out mid-cycle. Just replace the switch.