OEM vs Aftermarket Door Lock Strike for LG Washers: Honest Comparison (MFG63099101)

Your LG washer door won't latch. The repairman quotes you $85 for an OEM part plus $120 labor. You find the same part aftermarket for $9.99. What's the catch?

I've installed both versions in machines like the WM3370HVA and WM3770HWA dozens of times. Here's what actually matters when you're standing there with a broken door strike and a washer full of wet clothes.

Quick Answer

For a door lock strike, aftermarket makes sense 95% of the time. This is a simple plastic catch that either works or it doesn't—there's no performance spectrum. The OEM part offers slightly thicker plastic and LG branding, but the functional difference is negligible for a component that just sits there and gets bumped by a metal latch.

Side-by-Side Comparison

When OEM Makes Sense

There are exactly two scenarios where I'd spring for the OEM strike:

Your washer is under warranty. If LG is covering the repair, they'll only install OEM parts. Don't waste money on aftermarket if you're not paying for the fix anyway.

You're repairing to sell immediately. Some buyers get weird about "all original parts" even though they'll never know the difference. If you're flipping the machine next week, the LG branding might matter psychologically.

That's it. For every other situation—including a machine you're keeping for years—the price difference doesn't justify the identical functionality.

When Aftermarket Wins

The door strike is one of the simplest parts in your washer. It's a plastic catch with two screw holes. The OEM version doesn't latch "better" or last measurably longer—it just costs 8.5 times more.

One customer dealing with backorder nightmares put it perfectly:

"I originally called a local repair company. After waiting a week they told me they were unable to get the part and that it was back ordered!! I asked them to give me the part numbers...at which point he said...'you won't find them'! I went online, found the parts with AppliancePartsPros, talked live chat to make sure I could get them and had them the next day!!!"

The OEM supply chain for small plastic parts is a mess right now. Meanwhile, aftermarket parts ship immediately and include a full-year warranty versus LG's 90 days.

Installation is identical either way. Another DIYer reported: "I bought a new strike and lock for the washer. I also purchased a spreader tool for the metal ring around the gasket. It took about 20m to take everything apart and put it back together. Very simple repair."

You'll need basic screwdrivers. The difficulty is easy. The time is 15-30 minutes whether you're installing a $9.99 part or an $85 part.

Our Verdict

Go aftermarket unless LG is paying. The MFG63099101 door strike performs one simple mechanical function. The aftermarket version does it for $9.99 with a longer warranty and faster shipping. The OEM price premium buys you nothing except a logo you'll never see once the door closes. Save the $75 for something that actually matters—or just buy coffee for a month.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will the aftermarket strike fit my WM3770HWA exactly?

Yes. The MFG63099101 aftermarket part replaces AP5787149, AGF77417823, and PS8752721 across dozens of LG and Kenmore front-load models including the WM3050CW, WM3370HVA, WM3700HWA, and WM1388HW. The screw holes and latch positioning are identical. I've never seen a fitment issue with this specific part.

How do I know if the strike is actually broken?

Open the washer door and look at the strike mounted on the door frame (not the lock mechanism on the machine body). If it's cracked, missing chunks, or visibly loose, it's done. The most common failure is the plastic around one screw hole breaking off, so the strike tilts and won't align with the lock properly. The symptom: your door won't close or latch securely even though nothing looks obviously wrong.

Do I need to buy the door lock AND the strike together?

Not usually. The strike (the plastic catch on the door) and the lock (the motorized mechanism on the washer body) fail independently. If your door won't latch, inspect both parts. The strike shows obvious physical damage when it's bad. The lock fails electronically and won't click when you close the door. Buy what's actually broken—one customer in the quotes above bought both just to be safe, but most repairs only need one component replaced.