Maytag Dryer Won't Start When You Push the Button — 5 Causes & How to Fix

You load wet clothes into your Maytag dryer, push the start button, and... nothing. Maybe you hear a faint click. Maybe the lights come on but the drum doesn't turn. Or maybe the button feels mushy, like it's not engaging at all.

This is one of the most frustrating dryer failures because it's completely dead in the water. No heat diagnostics, no weird noises to decode — just a machine that refuses to acknowledge your existence.

The push-to-start switch (part W10563095) is the electronic brain that tells your dryer "okay, let's do this." When it fails, you're stuck. Let's walk through what's actually happening and how to fix it.

Quick Symptom Check

Before you pull the dryer apart, confirm what you're dealing with:

• Absolutely nothing happens when you press start — no lights, no sounds, no movement
• Lights work but drum won't turn — control panel is alive, but start button does nothing
• Button feels stuck or unresponsive — no tactile click when you press it
• Works intermittently — sometimes starts on first press, sometimes takes 10+ tries
• Error codes flashing — F01, F70, or other fault codes related to control communication

If you're seeing any combination of these, you're likely dealing with either the push-to-start switch itself or the control board it connects to.

Cause #1: Failed Push-to-Start Switch (65% of Cases)

Why it happens: The W10563095 switch is a momentary-contact electronic component. Every time you press it, internal contacts close to send a signal to the control board. After thousands of presses — especially if you're doing laundry for a family — those contacts wear out, get dirty, or the plastic actuator cracks.

How to diagnose:

1. Unplug the dryer (seriously, don't skip this)
2. Remove the top panel — usually two screws at the back, then lift and tilt forward
3. Locate the push-to-start switch behind the control panel
4. Disconnect the wire harness (press the tab and pull gently)
5. Set your multimeter to continuity mode
6. Press the button — you should hear a beep indicating closed circuit
7. Release — beep should stop

If there's no beep when pressed, or if it beeps continuously, the switch is toast.

The fix: Replace with W10563095. This is a 15-minute job once you have the panel off. Match the wire colors, push the new switch into the mounting bracket until it clicks, reconnect the harness. The switch fits models MEDX655DW1, MGDX655DW0, 7MMEDX655EW0, and dozens more in the Maytag Centennial and Bravos lines.

Cost: $64.99 for the OEM part. Don't cheap out on aftermarket here — you'll be back inside the dryer in six months.

Cause #2: Corroded Wire Harness Connection (20% of Cases)

Sometimes the switch is fine, but the connector itself has oxidized. If your laundry room gets humid or the dryer's vented poorly, moisture creeps into these connections over years.

Diagnosis: Pull the wire harness off the switch and inspect the metal terminals inside the plastic connector. Look for green/white crusty buildup or black carbon scoring.

The fix: Spray with electrical contact cleaner, let dry, reconnect. If the terminals are badly corroded, you'll need to replace the harness (or cut and splice new terminals if you're handy with a soldering iron).

Cause #3: Main Control Board Failure (10% of Cases)

If the switch tests good and connections are clean, the control board might not be receiving or processing the start signal.

Signs pointing to the board:

• Multiple error codes appearing
• Other buttons also not working
• Display flickering or going blank intermittently

Control board replacement is a $150–$300 fix depending on your model. At that point, you need to decide if it's worth it based on the dryer's age.

Cause #4: Door Switch Interlock Fault (3% of Cases)

Your dryer won't start if it thinks the door is open — even if you can see it's closed. The door switch sends a signal to the control board saying "all clear." If that switch fails, the start button does nothing.

Quick test: Open the door, locate the door switch (usually in the top right of the door opening), and manually press the actuator with your finger while the door is open. If the drum light turns off, the switch works. If it stays on, replace the door switch first before assuming it's the start button.

Cause #5: Thermal Fuse Blown (2% of Cases)

Less common with "won't start at all" symptoms, but if your dryer overheated recently, the thermal fuse on the blower housing might've blown. This cuts all power to prevent fires.

Check: With the dryer unplugged, access the blower housing (lower front or rear depending on model), locate the thermal fuse, and test for continuity. No continuity = blown fuse = no start.

Replace the fuse, but also figure out why it blew — clogged vent, restricted airflow, failed thermostat.

When to Call a Pro

If you've replaced the switch, cleaned connections, and the dryer still won't start, you're into deeper electrical diagnostics. At that point, unless you're comfortable tracing voltage with a multimeter across the control board, call a tech.

Also: if your dryer is 12+ years old and needs a control board, get a repair estimate first. You might be $200 away from "should've just bought a new dryer" territory.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I bypass the push-to-start switch temporarily?

Technically yes — you can jumper the two wires together to simulate a closed switch. But you'll have to unplug the dryer every time you want to stop it, which is dangerous and inconvenient. Just replace the switch.

Will this part fit my Kenmore dryer?

W10563095 fits many Kenmore 110-series dryers made by Whirlpool. Check your model number against the compatible list or use the part lookup tool on the product page. Common fits include models starting with 110.6.

Why is the OEM part so expensive?

It's electronic, not just a mechanical switch. There's a circuit board inside that communicates with the main control. Cheaper aftermarket versions fail quickly because they use lower-grade components. Spend the $65 once instead of $30 three times.