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The single-coil valve solenoid fails or clogs, cutting off water supply to the ice maker. Replacing the valve restores normal ice production.
A restricted or defective inlet valve starves the dispenser of adequate water pressure, resulting in a slow trickle or no water at the door.
A cracked valve body, worn internal seal, or failed solenoid can cause water to drip from the rear lower section of the refrigerator onto the floor.
Partial valve restriction reduces water fill volume per cycle, causing the ice maker to produce undersized, hollow, or irregularly shaped cubes.
A stuck-open solenoid or worn valve seat prevents the valve from fully closing, leading to constant water noise, running sounds, or uncontrolled dripping.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Confirm Your Water Inlet Valve Has Failed
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Ice maker stops producing ice entirely or makes small, hollow, or misshapen cubes
⚠️ Door water dispenser produces little to no water or dispenses very slowly
⚠️ Water leaks from the rear lower area of the refrigerator near the valve
⚠️ Valve buzzes, hums, or runs continuously without stopping water flow
🔎 Diagnosis tip: Use a multimeter to test solenoid coil resistance across the 2-pin connector terminals. A healthy single-coil valve typically reads 200–500 Ω. An open circuit (OL) reading confirms the solenoid has failed and the valve must be replaced — do not attempt to clean or rebuild a clogged inlet valve, as internal mesh damage will cause repeat failures.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Primary Water Inlet Valve — Single Coil (replaces MJX41178908)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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