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When the defrost heater fails, frost accumulates on the evaporator coils and blocks airflow, causing the fresh-food section to warm up even though the compressor is running.
A burned-out heater element allows thick ice sheets to form on the evaporator fins and rear interior wall, a classic symptom of a failed automatic defrost cycle.
Visible frost or solid ice on the evaporator coils behind the rear panel indicates the heater is no longer melting frost during scheduled defrost cycles.
Inconsistent refrigerator temperatures — foods freezing near the back or warm spots developing — can result from restricted airflow caused by heater failure and ice buildup.
💡 Pro Tip: Is Your Defrost Heater the Problem?
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Thick frost or ice sheet covering the back wall of the refrigerator compartment
⚠️ Refrigerator section warming up while freezer still works
⚠️ Frost visible on evaporator coils behind the rear panel
⚠️ Multimeter shows no continuity across the heater terminals at room temperature after bypassing the inline thermostat
🔬 Diagnosis tip: Unplug the fridge and remove the rear evaporator panel. Set your multimeter to Ω. The heater alone should read approximately 140 Ω at room temperature. No continuity means the heater has open-circuited and needs replacement. Also test the companion bimetal thermostat DA47-00243K — a failed thermostat can prevent the heater from ever receiving power.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× DA47-00244W Defrost Heater Metal Sheath Assembly (120V / 244W, ~10″ × 8″, two-pin Molex connector)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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