GE Washer Water Inlet Valve Parts — Models & Compatibility

If your GE, Hotpoint, or RCA washer isn't filling properly—or worse, you've found water pooling behind the machine—the triple water inlet valve is likely the culprit. This WH13X10033 replacement fits over 150 models across GE's GWRE, WCRE, WHRE, WJRE, and WPRB series washers. We're talking about the main valve that controls hot, cold, and warm water flow into your tub.

Is This the Right Part for Your Model?

Check your washer's model number before ordering. You'll find it on a label inside the door frame or on the back panel near the water connections. This valve fits models like GWRE6270H0WW, WCRE6270H1CC, WHRE5550H2WW, WJRE5550H0WW, and WPRB8350H0WT. The model number format typically starts with a letter combo followed by four digits and ends with H plus a number and color code (WW for white, CC for custom color, WT for white on white).

About This Replacement Part

The WH13X10033 is a triple-port solenoid valve—it has three separate water inlets controlled by electronic solenoids. When your washer's control board sends a signal, these solenoids open or close to allow hot water, cold water, or a mix of both into the wash tub. The most common failure mode? Leaking. You'll spot water dripping from the valve connections or seeping from the solenoid bodies themselves. Internal rubber seals deteriorate over time, and mineral deposits can prevent the solenoids from closing completely. This part replaces AP4344481, 1475764, and PS2322455—all the same valve under different supplier numbers.

Compatible Model Series

This inlet valve works across multiple GE washer series introduced in the mid-2000s through early 2010s. Here's what fits:

• GWRE Series: Front-load washers with steam options (GWRE6270H models)
• WCRE Series: Closely related to GWRE, often marketed under different retail channels (WCRE6270H models)
• WHRE Series: High-efficiency front-loaders (WHRE5550H models)
• WJRE Series: Energy Star rated washers (WJRE5550H models)
• WPRB Series: Premium front-load models (WPRB8350H models)

Why This Part Fails

Inlet valves work hard. Every wash cycle means multiple open-close operations, and minerals in your water supply gradually build up inside the valve body. Hard water is especially tough on these parts. The rubber diaphragms inside each solenoid can crack after years of pressure changes, and the plastic housing can develop stress fractures if you've ever had a water hammer situation (that banging sound when the valve closes quickly). Leaking is the telltale sign—either a steady drip or a puddle forming behind your washer after cycles.

What You're Actually Replacing

This isn't just a valve—it's the entire inlet assembly. You get the valve body, all three solenoid coils pre-installed, mounting bracket, and the wire harness connector. The inlet threads are standard 3/4-inch garden hose size, so your existing fill hoses will thread right on. At $81.99, you're getting OEM-equivalent quality. Generic valves run cheaper but often fail within months because they use inferior solenoid coils that can't handle the rapid cycling GE washers demand.

Installation Overview

You'll need to unplug the washer and shut off both water supply valves. Disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the machine, then remove the top or rear panel to access the valve mounting screws. The wire harness has a locking tab—press it and pull straight off. Two or three screws hold the valve to the frame. Remove those, pull the old valve out, and reverse the process with your new one. Hand-tighten the fill hoses, then give them a quarter turn with pliers. Don't overtighten or you'll crack the plastic inlet threads.