GE Range Dual Element Infinite Control Switch Parts — Models & Compatibility

If you've got a GE, Hotpoint, or Kenmore range where turning the burner knob does nothing—the element won't heat at all—you're likely dealing with a failed dual element infinite control switch. This hub covers the WB24T10058 replacement switch that fits dozens of GE JBP and JB series ranges, plus compatible Hotpoint and Kenmore models that use the same control assembly.

Is This the Right Part for Your Model?

The WB24T10058 dual element switch controls two separate heating elements through a single rotary dial—common on ranges with dual burners or dual-element ovens. To verify compatibility, you'll need your model number, which is typically located on a metal tag inside the oven door frame (open the door and check along the front panel edge) or on the control panel itself behind the storage drawer.

This switch fits GE model series including JBP78, JBP89, JBP90, JB710, JB850, and JB855—we've listed the most common compatible models below. If your model number starts with JBP or JB followed by three digits, there's a strong chance this is your part.

About This Replacement Part

The WB24T10058 replaces older part numbers AP2622889, WB24T10031, PS236780, and 875079—all functionally identical switches that GE has updated over the years. This is an infinite control switch, meaning it provides variable heat settings rather than just on/off. When this switch fails, the most common symptom is simple: the heating element will not heat at all, no matter where you turn the dial. You might hear a click when you rotate the knob, but zero heat output follows.

The switch contains internal contacts that regulate power flow to the heating elements. Over time—usually after thousands of heating cycles—these contacts wear out, oxidize, or separate completely. Unlike a burner element that might glow dimly when failing, a dead control switch gives you nothing. The element stays cold, the burner won't even start to warm up. It's a complete power interruption between the wall outlet and your heating element.

Compatible GE Range Models

This WB24T10058 dual element control switch fits the following GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore range models. This is a sample of the most common installations—your specific model may be compatible even if not listed here:

• JBP78WOB2WW — GE
• JB710S0H3SS — GE
• JB710S0K4SS — GE
• JB850DP2WW — GE
• JB850DP3WW — GE
• JB850DP4WW — GE
• JB850SF1SS — GE
• JB850SP1SS — GE
• JB850SP2SS — GE
• JB850SP3SS — GE
• JB855DP1WW — GE
• JB855DP2WW — GE
• JB855DP3WW — GE
• JBP89TM2WW — GE
• JBP90TF1WW — GE
• JBP90TF2WW — GE
• JBP90SF1SS — GE
• JBP90SF2SS — GE

If you own a Kenmore range manufactured by GE (common in the 790 series), cross-reference your model number with GE's compatibility database or contact us with your full model number for verification.

What You're Replacing

The dual element infinite control switch mounts behind your range's control knob on the front control panel. It's a rectangular black or gray housing with multiple wire terminals on the back—typically four to six spade connectors that plug into your range's internal wiring harness. One switch controls two separate heating circuits, which is why it's called a "dual element" switch.

You'll need to pull the range away from the wall, disconnect power, and remove the rear access panel or top panel (depending on your model) to access the back of the control switch. The knob pulls straight off the front, then you'll disconnect the wire terminals and unbolt the switch mounting bracket. The entire job takes about 20-30 minutes if you've done appliance repairs before, maybe 45 minutes if this is your first control switch replacement.

Why This Switch Fails

Infinite control switches fail from heat exposure and electrical arcing. Every time you adjust the burner temperature, the internal contacts open and close rapidly to regulate power—this creates tiny arcs that gradually erode the contact surfaces. After years of use, the contacts no longer make solid connection, or they fail completely. High-wattage burners (like 3000W+ elements) accelerate this wear because they draw more current through the same small contact points.

If you've noticed the burner working intermittently before it quit entirely—heating for a few seconds, then cutting out—that's the classic sign of a switch on its last legs. Once it fails completely, you'll get zero heat output. The element will not heat at all, which is exactly the symptom this part addresses.