OEM vs Aftermarket Lid Lock Assembly for Whirlpool: Honest Comparison (W11307244)

Your Whirlpool washer won't start, and you've tracked it down to a failed lid lock. You pull the model number — it's a WTW5000DW2 — and now you're staring at two choices online: the OEM Whirlpool part for $140–$180, or this aftermarket W11307244 for $94.99. Let's break down what you're actually getting with each option.

Quick Answer

For most DIY repairs, the aftermarket W11307244 delivers identical function at 35-45% savings. The OEM version offers slightly faster shipping through appliance parts distributors, but you're paying a premium for a Whirlpool logo on a component that fails at similar rates regardless of source.

Side-by-Side Comparison

When OEM Makes Sense

If you're a service technician doing warranty work, you don't have a choice — the manufacturer requires OEM parts for coverage. That's the main scenario where paying extra is mandatory, not optional.

The OEM version also ships faster if you order through appliance parts wholesalers who stock Whirlpool inventory locally. If you need your washer running tomorrow for a houseful of laundry and you've got a local supplier, that two-day turnaround beats waiting for shipping.

Some folks just sleep better knowing they bought the "official" part. That's not irrational — it's personal preference, and if the price difference doesn't matter to your budget, go for it.

When Aftermarket Wins

For DIY repairs outside warranty periods, the aftermarket W11307244 makes more financial sense. You're getting the same latch mechanism, the same wiring harness connection, and the same mounting points. This isn't a complicated electronic board — it's a solenoid lock with a switch. The failure modes are identical: either the solenoid coil burns out, or the plastic latch cracks from repeated cycles.

The longer warranty coverage actually tips in the aftermarket's favor here. One year versus 90 days matters on a component that typically fails between 3-7 years of use on these top-load washers.

Here's a critical installation note that applies to both OEM and aftermarket: the part might arrive in the locked position. Don't panic when you can't manually open the latch. Install it, power up the washing machine, and let the control board cycle it to the open position during the initial self-test. That's normal for both versions.

What You Need to Know About Compatibility

This assembly works across Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, and Kenmore models that share the same cabinet design. If your washer is a WTW4616FW2, WTW4850HW1, or WTW4955HW0, you're covered. The aftermarket version replaces multiple part numbers because Whirlpool has revised this component several times without changing the actual function — just minor plastic molding updates.

Installation takes 15-20 minutes if you've got a nut driver and some patience. Unplug the machine, remove the top panel, disconnect the wire harness, unbolt the old assembly, and reverse the process. The trickiest part is making sure the latch aligns with the strike on the lid — if it's off by even a few millimeters, the washer will throw an error code and refuse to start.

Our Verdict

Unless you're doing warranty work or have a local OEM supplier with next-day availability, save the $50–$85 and go aftermarket. The W11307244 performs identically to the OEM version, comes with better warranty coverage, and you'll have beer money left over after fixing your washer. We've installed hundreds of these — failure rates are statistically identical.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will the aftermarket lid lock void my Whirlpool warranty?

Only if your washer is still under the manufacturer's warranty period. Once that expires — typically after one year — you can use any compatible part without affecting coverage that no longer exists. If you're within warranty, call Whirlpool for a service appointment using OEM parts.

Why does the lid lock arrive in the locked position?

It's a safety feature during shipping. The latch mechanism defaults to locked when there's no power applied. Once you install it and turn on the washer, the control board sends a signal to unlock it during the initialization sequence. Don't try to force it open manually — you'll break the plastic housing.

Can I test the lid lock before installing it?

Not easily. The assembly requires 120V AC power from the washer's control board to energize the solenoid, and it needs to detect proper lid closure through the switch mechanism. Your best bet is to install it and run a diagnostic cycle. If the washer starts normally and locks the lid during the spin cycle, you're good to go.