OEM vs Aftermarket Dishwasher Heating Element for Whirlpool: Honest Comparison (W10134009)

Your Whirlpool WDF520PADM7 stopped drying dishes last week. You looked up the heating element — OEM part W10518394 shows $89–$127 depending on where you check. Then you found aftermarket versions like W10134009 at $17.99. That's an $80+ difference. You're skeptical. Should you be?

Let's cut through the marketing and look at what actually matters when your dishwasher needs a new heating element.

Quick Answer

For heating elements, aftermarket makes sense for most people. OEM costs 5–7x more for functionally identical performance on this part. Unless you're locked into a Whirlpool warranty claim or flipping the appliance for resale, the aftermarket W10134009 delivers the same result: properly dried dishes at significantly lower cost.

Side-by-Side Comparison

When OEM Makes Sense

There are legitimate scenarios where spending extra on the OEM element is justified:

You're still under manufacturer warranty. If your dishwasher is less than a year old and you're filing a warranty claim, Whirlpool will only cover OEM parts. Using aftermarket voids that coverage. In this narrow window, pay for OEM or you'll pay for the whole repair.

You're selling the appliance soon. Some buyers specifically ask if repairs used factory parts. If you're flipping appliances or selling a rental property, the OEM sticker might add perceived value — though functionally, it makes zero difference.

Your local dealer has one in stock today. If your heating element failed mid-cycle with a dishwasher full of standing water and your dealer has OEM on the shelf, sometimes speed beats savings. But call first — most dealers order these parts just like you would.

When Aftermarket Wins

For the vast majority of repairs, aftermarket is the smarter play:

The failure modes are identical. Heating elements fail one way: the coil breaks. When that happens, your dishes don't dry — whether it's a $90 element or an $18 element. The aftermarket W10134009 heats water to the same 140–160°F range using the same wattage. There's no "premium" way to boil water.

Faster availability. Most OEM heating elements aren't sitting on dealer shelves. They order them from regional warehouses, which means you're waiting 3–7 days anyway. Aftermarket ships same or next day from centralized distribution — your dishwasher is fixed by weekend instead of "sometime next week."

Better warranty terms. The aftermarket W10134009 includes a 1-year warranty versus the typical 90-day coverage on OEM parts from retailers. If it fails (rare, but it happens), you're not buying another one in four months.

Cross-compatibility saves you research time. The W10134009 replaces W10518394, 8194250, 8563007, 8572861, and AP5690151. It works across Whirlpool WDF/WDT series, Kenmore Elite 665 models, Maytag MDB series, and Amana ADB dishwashers. One part number covers scenarios where OEM makes you verify multiple superseded numbers.

The Real Cost of "Not Drying Dishes Properly"

Here's what matters: when your WDF520PADM3 or WDT720PADM2 stops drying, you're hand-drying every load or running extra heat cycles that spike your electric bill. A failed heating element costs you time and money every single day you wait.

Spending an extra $80–$100 on OEM doesn't make your dishes drier. It doesn't make the repair last longer. It just means you spent $80–$100 more than necessary.

Our Verdict: Buy the aftermarket W10134009 unless you're filing a warranty claim. You'll save $70–$110, get your dishwasher fixed faster, and have better warranty protection. The OEM premium buys you branded packaging and nothing else. For models like the WDF330PAHS0, WDF310PAAS3, or WDF320PADW1, the aftermarket element installs identically and performs identically. Keep the $80 for the next repair — because with appliances, there's always a next repair.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will aftermarket heating elements trip my dishwasher's control board?

No. The W10134009 uses the same resistance specs (8–12 ohms typical) as OEM. Your control board can't tell the difference — it's measuring electrical resistance, not reading brand names. If you're getting error codes after installation, it's a wiring or sensor issue, not an OEM vs aftermarket issue.

Does using aftermarket parts void my Whirlpool warranty?

Only if you're still under the original manufacturer warranty (typically one year from purchase). After that, you have no Whirlpool warranty to void — the appliance is out of coverage either way. Third-party extended warranties vary, but most cover "manufacturer-approved equivalents," which includes quality aftermarket parts. Check your specific policy if you're unsure.

Why is the OEM element so much more expensive if they're the same?

Brand tax. Whirlpool marks up parts because they can — if you're calling an authorized service center, they're quoting OEM by default. The actual manufacturing often happens in the same overseas factories. You're paying extra for the Whirlpool logo on the box and distribution through their dealer network. For simple components like heating elements, that premium doesn't translate to better performance or longevity.