OEM vs Aftermarket W10117655 Dryer Switch for Whirlpool: Honest Comparison

Your Whirlpool dryer won't stay running unless you hold the button down. You've diagnosed it: the W10117655 push-to-start switch is shot. Now you're staring at a $95+ OEM part versus a $52.99 aftermarket replacement. One guy saved his wife $500 on a new dryer by swapping this switch himself in 5 minutes — but which version should you buy?

I've installed both. Here's what actually matters.

Quick Answer

The aftermarket W10117655 switch works identically to OEM for half the price. Unless you're selling the home next month and want that factory sticker on the receipt, the aftermarket version is the smart call. Same fit, same contacts, same 15-minute install.

Side-by-Side Comparison

When OEM Makes Sense

You're under warranty. That's really it. If your Whirlpool WED5000DW2 or WGD4995EW1 is still covered, Whirlpool will only honor claims with their branded parts. Fair enough.

The other scenario: you're flipping a house and the buyer's inspector is nitpicky about receipts. Some home warranty companies get weird about aftermarket parts during the first 30 days. In that case, eat the extra $40 for the OEM switch and move on.

But if you're keeping the dryer? The OEM premium buys you nothing except a Whirlpool logo on the plastic housing that you'll never see again once it's installed behind the control panel.

When Aftermarket Wins

One customer told us: "The help tech helped me troubleshoot what the problem might be, and we narrowed it down to a faulty switch. He helped us pick the right part, and the video was helpful - it gave me the confidence that I could fix it myself. The part came, and it only took me 5 minutes to change out the switch. Now my dryer works great! I saved my wife $500 for a new dryer!"

That's the whole point. This switch fails because of mechanical wear — you've pushed that button thousands of times. The contacts inside get dirty, the spring loses tension, and suddenly your WED4815EW or WGD4915EW2 stops mid-cycle unless you hold the button.

The aftermarket W10117655 uses the same contact design. Same twist-lock mount (30 degrees clockwise). Same two-wire harness connectors. Another repair tech noted: "Owner stated the some times dryer stayed on after pushing switch but had almost impossible to start recently. Checked voltages on switch and all seemed to be correct. Ordered switch and installed. Operated as expected after installation."

Works on Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, and Crosley dryers. Fits WED4950HW0, WED4995EW0, WETLV27FW0, and about 200 other models. You're not taking a risk here — you're just refusing to pay double for a sticker.

Installation Reality Check

Both switches install identically:

1. Remove 6 sheet metal screws from the access panel behind the control panel
2. Pull the start switch knob straight off
3. Unplug two wire harness connectors
4. Pull the plastic retainer back, twist 30 degrees right, pull out
5. Reverse the process with the new switch

Takes 15-30 minutes if you're careful. 5 minutes if you've done it before. No difference between OEM and aftermarket installation — same mounting tabs, same wire colors, same knob attachment.

Our Verdict

Buy the aftermarket W10117655 unless you're under warranty. You'll save $40–$65, get faster shipping, and receive a better warranty (1 year vs 90 days). The switch works identically because it's the same mechanical design. The only difference is the logo stamped on plastic you'll never see again. One guy saved his wife $500 on a new dryer with this exact part. Don't overthink it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will aftermarket W10117655 void my Whirlpool warranty?

Only if your dryer is still under manufacturer warranty. Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act says they can't void your warranty just for using aftermarket parts — but they can refuse to cover repairs directly related to that part. If your dryer's 2+ years old (most warranties are expired), this doesn't matter. Use the aftermarket and save the money.

Why does this switch fail so often?

It's a mechanical contact switch that gets pressed 5-10 times per week for years. The spring inside weakens, the contacts oxidize, and eventually the dryer won't stay running when you release the button. Normal wear item. OEM and aftermarket both fail at roughly the same rate because it's a design limitation, not a quality issue.

How do I know if the switch is actually bad?

Classic symptoms: dryer won't start when you push the button, or it stops running the instant you release it. Sometimes it works intermittently — starts on the third or fourth press. If you're holding the button down and the dryer runs fine, that's the W10117655 switch. If it won't run at all even when held, check your thermal fuse first.