OEM vs Aftermarket Compressor Start Relay for Whirlpool: What $40 Actually Buys You (ER61005518)

Your Whirlpool fridge is running, but you hear that dreaded clicking sound every few minutes — the compressor's trying to start but can't quite get there. You've diagnosed it down to the start relay and overload kit. Now you're staring at two options: a $55–$65 OEM part from an authorized dealer with a 2-week ship time, or a $15–$18 aftermarket kit that'll arrive in 2 days. Here's what that price difference actually means.

Quick Answer

For most home refrigerator repairs, the aftermarket ER61005518 relay kit delivers identical performance at one-third the cost. The OEM advantage exists mainly in warranty coverage for commercial installations or if you're within your original appliance warranty period. For a 7-year-old Maytag CTF1722GRQ or Whirlpool ATB1935HRQ, aftermarket makes financial sense.

Side-by-Side Comparison

When OEM Makes Sense

There are three situations where spending the extra $40 on genuine Whirlpool parts is justified:

• Active manufacturer warranty: If your refrigerator is less than 1 year old, using aftermarket parts voids coverage. Pay the premium and file it under warranty — you might get reimbursed anyway.
• Commercial or rental properties: Property managers often require OEM parts for liability reasons. That invoice with the Whirlpool logo can matter during insurance claims or tenant disputes.
• High-end built-in models: If you've got a $4,500 built-in unit, the $40 difference is noise. Some techs won't even touch premium installations with aftermarket parts.

For standard top-freezer models like the Maytag CT21G6Q or CTB1521GRQ — which represent 80% of the compatible units — OEM is overkill.

When Aftermarket Wins

The ER61005518 is one of those rare cases where aftermarket actually offers better warranty terms than OEM. Whirlpool's 90-day parts-only coverage doesn't even cover your labor if the relay fails in month four. The aftermarket kit gives you a full year, and most retailers will overnight a replacement if there's an issue.

Speed matters here too. When your compressor won't start, you're losing $30 worth of food every day that fridge sits dead. A 2-week wait for OEM parts turns a $60 repair into a $250+ total loss. The aftermarket relay uses the same PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) thermistor technology — there's no functional difference in how it kicks the compressor on.

Here's the thing about "Whirlpool OEM quality" — Whirlpool doesn't actually manufacture these relays in-house. They contract them out to the same Asian suppliers that make aftermarket versions, then slap their logo on the bag and mark it up 300%. You're paying for the name, not better engineering.

The aftermarket ER61005518 fits the same terminal configuration on compressors for Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore models dating back to 2004. That includes oddball models like the Briggs and Stratton 01040-0 (yes, the lawnmower company briefly made refrigerators). If the terminal spacing matches, it'll work.

Our Verdict

Save your money. For 95% of home repairs on models like the MTB1956GEQ or CT19G4Q, the aftermarket ER61005518 relay kit will deliver 5+ years of reliable service at one-third the cost. Put that $40 toward a water filter or a case of beer — you've earned it for doing the repair yourself.

The only exception: if you're claiming warranty reimbursement or working on commercial equipment with specific insurance requirements. Otherwise, the aftermarket version is functionally identical where it counts — in the electrical specs and thermal cutoff behavior.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will using aftermarket parts void my Whirlpool warranty?

Yes, if your appliance is still under the original manufacturer warranty (typically 1 year). After that, you're out of warranty anyway, so the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act actually protects your right to use aftermarket parts for repairs. Extended warranties vary — read the fine print.

How can I tell if the relay is actually the problem?

Unplug the fridge, pull the relay off the compressor terminals, and shake it. If you hear rattling, the internal contacts have failed — that's your culprit. Also check the overload disc (the round part) with a multimeter — it should show continuity at room temperature. No continuity means it's stuck open.

Do I need both the relay and overload, or can I replace just one?

They're sold as a kit for a reason. If one component has failed due to electrical stress or heat, the other isn't far behind. Replacing just the relay now means you'll be back in there replacing the overload in six months. Spend the extra $4 and do both — it's the same labor either way.