OEM vs Aftermarket Dryer Heating Element for Frigidaire: Honest Comparison (134792700)

Your Frigidaire dryer stopped heating mid-cycle, and now you're staring at a $110.99 heater element versus a $180+ OEM part. The price gap is real, but so is the anxiety about whether aftermarket parts actually work. I've replaced hundreds of these 134792700 heating elements in models like the FASE7074LA0 and LAQE7000LW0, and here's what the price difference actually buys you.

Quick Answer

For heating elements specifically, aftermarket parts perform identically to OEM because they're simple resistance coils — no circuit boards, no complex engineering. The $70 you save buying aftermarket goes straight into your pocket with zero performance trade-off, assuming you're buying from a reputable supplier with proper safety certifications.

Side-by-Side Comparison

When OEM Makes Sense

There are exactly two scenarios where paying double for OEM is justified:

Your dryer is still under warranty. If you've got any factory warranty left, you're required to use OEM parts or you'll void coverage. No debate here — pay the premium and keep your warranty intact.

You're repairing a commercial laundromat machine. Some commercial lease agreements or insurance policies specify OEM-only parts. Read your contract. If it says OEM, that's your answer regardless of cost.

That's it. For typical home repairs on dryers like the FASE7073NW2 or LAQE8000LW0, there's no functional advantage to OEM heating elements.

When Aftermarket Wins

Heating elements are mechanically simple — a coil of resistance wire wrapped around a ceramic core. When they fail, it's almost always a clean break in the coil element, which you can often see with the naked eye. There's no proprietary technology here, no firmware, no calibration.

The aftermarket 134792700 heats to the exact same temperature (controlled by your dryer's existing thermostat, not the element itself). It draws the same wattage. It mounts with the same holes. The OEM and aftermarket parts are functionally interchangeable because the dryer's control board dictates the heating behavior — the element is just dumb resistance.

Here's the critical part: always check for a blown thermal fuse or thermal cutout before replacing the element. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element itself is only faulty about 60% of the time. The thermal fuse (a $12 part) fails just as often. Replace both together and you'll save yourself a second disassembly if the fuse was the real culprit.

For models showing overheating symptoms, the element might be fine but the cycling thermostat has failed stuck-closed. Again, diagnosing before ordering saves money.

Our Verdict

Buy aftermarket unless warranty-required. The 134792700 aftermarket element gives you identical heat output, faster shipping, better warranty coverage, and $70+ back in your wallet. That's enough to also replace the thermal fuse, thermostat, and still have cash left over for lunch.

The one thing I'd actually spend money on? A multimeter to test continuity before ordering anything. A $15 meter saves you from replacing parts that aren't broken.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will the aftermarket element last as long as OEM?

Yes, because lifespan depends on usage patterns, not the brand stamped on the element. Both use nickel-chromium coils rated for the same number of heating cycles. Overloading your dryer or running it with clogged vents kills elements early — the brand won't save you from that.

Does the aftermarket part fit all the compatible models listed?

This 134792700 element replaces AP4368653, 1482984, PS2349309, and 7134792700 across Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, and Crosley dryers. It's a direct replacement for models like FASE7074NW0, FASE7021NW3, and dozens more. Check your dryer's model plate — if 134792700 is listed as the element part number, it fits.

Can I install this myself or do I need a technician?

If you can use a screwdriver and unplug wires, you can replace a heating element. Remove the dryer's rear panel (usually 6–8 screws), disconnect the wire terminals from the old element, unbolt it, and reverse the process. The entire job takes 20–30 minutes. Just remember to unplug the dryer first — 240V will absolutely ruin your day.