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Washer tub remains empty after the cycle starts — the solenoid coil has failed open and can no longer energise to let water through.
Water keeps flowing into the tub even with the lid open or the unit unplugged — the valve diaphragm is mechanically stuck open and must be replaced.
Only one temperature port fills while the other is dead — one solenoid winding has failed while the second remains operational.
Prolonged fill time triggers an F8E1 or Long Fill fault code; a clogged or weakened valve restricts flow below the threshold the control board expects.
Dripping water detected at the back of the cabinet near the hose connections — worn valve body seals or a cracked housing is allowing water to bypass the valve seat.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Diagnose a Failing Water Inlet Valve
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Washer will not fill with water at all — tub stays empty after cycle starts
⚠️ Washer will not stop filling — water continues to enter even when unplugged from the wall
⚠️ No hot water or no cold water — one port has failed while the other still works
⚠️ Slow or prolonged fill triggering an F8E1 / Long Fill error code on the display
⚠️ Water dripping or leaking from the inlet area between cycles
🔬 Quick bench test: set a multimeter to resistance (Ω) and probe each solenoid terminal pair. A healthy solenoid reads 500–1,500 Ω. An open circuit (OL) or a shorted reading (near 0 Ω) confirms the valve must be replaced. If the washer stops overfilling the moment you unplug it, the valve body has failed mechanically — replace immediately.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× W11210459 Washer Water Inlet Valve (dual hot/cold solenoid, ABS body, wiring connectors pre-fitted)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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