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The washer has power but pressing Start does nothing — the control board waits for a "lid locked" signal that a failed lock never sends.
The lid closes physically but the solenoid fails to engage or release, preventing the cycle from beginning or ending normally.
Washer fills and agitates briefly then aborts — intermittent switch failure causes the control board to think the lid has opened mid-cycle.
Audible buzzing or rapid clicking from the lid lock area during startup indicates the solenoid is trying but failing to actuate due to worn internal contacts.
Samsung displays a door or lid lock error code and refuses to enter the spin cycle because the lock switch cannot confirm the lid is secured.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Confirm Your Lid Lock Has Failed
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Washer won't start or turn on even though power is present and the breaker is fine
⚠️ Washer fills with water but immediately stops — control board receives no "lid closed" signal
⚠️ Lid physically closes but the lock won't engage (no click or solenoid buzz heard)
⚠️ Audible buzzing or clicking noise repeatedly coming from the lid lock area during startup
🔍 Diagnostic tip: Use a multimeter set to continuity mode. Unplug the washer, disconnect the lid lock harness, and probe the switch terminals. A healthy lock shows continuity when the lid tab is depressed. No continuity = confirmed bad lock. If the lock is cracked or the tab is broken, replacement is the only fix — the assembly is not designed to be repaired internally.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Lid Lock & Switch Assembly DC34-00025E (H 1.50" × W 2.50" × L 4.90", white plastic housing, pre-wired connector plug)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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