OEM vs Aftermarket Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve: Honest Comparison (W11130743)

Your Whirlpool dishwasher won't fill with water. You've traced it to the inlet valve. Now you're staring at two options: a $95 OEM part from the dealer, or this $36.99 aftermarket valve. That's a $58 difference for what looks like the exact same component.

Which one actually makes sense?

Quick Answer

For most home repairs, the aftermarket W11130743 valve is the smarter choice. It's a simple two-wire solenoid valve — there's no proprietary technology here that justifies triple the price. Unless you're repairing a commercial machine under warranty, save the $58 and buy the aftermarket version.

Side-by-Side Comparison

When OEM Makes Sense

There are exactly three scenarios where you should consider the OEM valve:

Your dishwasher is still under manufacturer warranty. Using aftermarket parts can void coverage. If Whirlpool is paying, let them send the OEM valve.

You're a property manager doing insurance claims. Some insurance companies require OEM parts for documentation. Check your policy first.

You've already had two aftermarket valves fail. It happens rarely, but if you've gotten unlucky twice, the OEM valve might give you peace of mind. Though statistically, this usually points to a different problem — often water pressure or sediment issues.

When Aftermarket Wins

For 95% of DIY repairs, aftermarket is the clear winner. Here's why:

It's the same basic component. Water inlet valves are simple solenoid devices. When voltage hits the coil, a plunger opens and water flows. There's no secret sauce. Both OEM and aftermarket valves use the same 120V solenoid principle.

Installation is identical. One Phillips screw, two water lines. Takes under 15 minutes. As one user noted: "The valve is right in front. One phillips screw and it comes out with two water lines attached. I replaced and it still did not work." (Turned out a fork was stuck under the float valve — always check for obstructions first!)

Faster delivery. Dealer parts often require ordering and waiting. The W11130743 ships same-day and you're back in business.

Better warranty. The aftermarket valve includes a full year warranty versus the typical 90-day OEM coverage. That's 4x longer protection.

Reality check: Both valves will likely come from the same overseas factory region. Whirlpool doesn't manufacture these in-house — they contract them out, just like aftermarket suppliers do. You're paying $58 extra for a logo.

The One Thing That Matters More Than OEM vs Aftermarket

Here's what actually causes most inlet valve replacements to fail: not addressing the root cause.

If your valve failed because of sediment buildup, neither an OEM nor aftermarket valve will last if you don't install a water filter or flush the supply line first. If it failed because voltage is spiking, you've got a control board issue to fix.

Check these before replacing any valve:

• Water pressure at the supply line (should be 20–120 PSI)
• Sediment screen inside the valve threads — clean it
• Float assembly moves freely (that fork story above is real)
• Voltage at the valve terminals when dishwasher calls for water

Our Verdict

Buy the aftermarket W11130743 valve unless you have a specific reason not to. It's a $36.99 part that does the exact same job as the $95 OEM version. Put the $58 savings toward a water filter if you're in a hard-water area — that'll extend the life of your new valve far more than an OEM logo ever would.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will using an aftermarket valve void my Whirlpool warranty?

Only if your dishwasher is still under the original manufacturer warranty. Once that expires, you're free to use any compatible part. For out-of-warranty repairs (most DIY situations), aftermarket parts are perfectly fine and won't affect anything.

How do I know if the inlet valve is actually the problem?

If your dishwasher won't fill with water, first check the obvious stuff: make sure the water supply is on, the door latch clicks (most models won't fill if the door sensor is tripped), and nothing's blocking the float assembly. Then test voltage at the valve — you should see 120V when the machine calls for water. No voltage? Your problem is upstream in the control board or timer. Voltage present but no water flow? Replace the valve.

Can I install this myself or do I need a technician?

This is one of the easiest dishwasher repairs. You need a Phillips screwdriver and pliers. Turn off the water supply, disconnect two water lines, remove one screw, swap the valve, reconnect everything. Takes under 15 minutes. If you can change a light fixture, you can replace this valve. Just make sure to turn off the circuit breaker before you start.