OEM vs Aftermarket Lid Lock Assembly for Whirlpool Washers: Honest Comparison (W11394572)

Your Whirlpool WTW5105HW2 won't start. You close the lid, hear nothing, and the control panel just blinks at you. The lid lock assembly is dead — a $180-$220 OEM part from appliance stores, or a $35-$55 aftermarket replacement online. Same mounting holes, same connector. Which one actually works?

I've installed both versions in machines like the WTW8120HW0 and WTW6120HC1. Here's what the price difference actually buys you.

Quick Answer

Aftermarket W11394572 replacements work identically to OEM for 95% of users and cost 70% less. The OEM version offers Whirlpool's warranty backing and slightly tighter tolerances, but the functional difference is negligible. Unless you're repairing under manufacturer warranty, aftermarket makes more sense.

Side-by-Side Comparison

When OEM Makes Sense

You're dealing with a brand-new washer still under Whirlpool's manufacturer warranty. Using an aftermarket part voids coverage on related components — not worth the risk when the whole machine is protected.

Your service contract specifically requires OEM parts. Some home warranty companies and commercial laundry operators mandate factory parts. Check your paperwork before ordering.

You've had two aftermarket lid locks fail in the same machine. Rare, but it happens — usually indicates a wiring harness issue causing repeated failures. At that point, the OEM part's tighter electrical tolerances might handle the problem better while you troubleshoot the real cause.

When Aftermarket Wins

Your Whirlpool WTW6120HW1 is 4-7 years old and out of warranty. The lid lock fails with that classic "lid or door won't close" symptom where the mechanism doesn't engage. You're paying for the repair yourself. Spending $200+ on a $15 manufacturing difference makes no sense.

The aftermarket W11394572 fixes the same locking issues — the solenoid engages, the switch confirms closure, and your washer starts normally. I've never seen a functional difference once installed.

Lead time matters. OEM parts often sit at regional warehouses. Aftermarket ships faster, which matters when you've got a week of laundry piling up.

The warranty comparison is backwards from what you'd expect. Most OEM appliance parts carry 90-day warranties. Quality aftermarket suppliers offer 1-year coverage because they're confident in the product. That tells you something.

The Real Manufacturing Story

Here's what most people don't know: many "OEM" and "aftermarket" parts come from the same factories. Whirlpool contracts manufacturing to third parties who produce to spec. Those same manufacturers often produce compatible versions for the aftermarket using nearly identical tooling.

The differences? Whirlpool-branded packaging, batch testing protocols, and tighter QC tolerances (which matter more for complex assemblies, less for simple switches like lid locks). For a part that either works or doesn't — no gradual degradation — those tolerances rarely matter.

What About Installation?

Identical. Both versions mount with the same screws in the same locations on machines like the WTW5105HC0 and WTW8120HC0. The wire harness connector clicks into place the same way. If you're doing the repair yourself, you won't notice a difference in the process.

The actual swap takes 20-30 minutes: unplug the machine, remove the top panel, disconnect the old lock assembly, install the new one, reconnect the harness, test. Same steps regardless of which part you bought.

Our Verdict

Go aftermarket unless warranty restrictions prevent it. The W11394572 aftermarket lid lock costs $125-$165 less than OEM and solves the same "will not start" and "locking issues" problems. You're not sacrificing reliability — you're avoiding the Whirlpool brand markup. Save the money for the next repair, because if one component failed, others are probably aging too.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will an aftermarket lid lock void my Whirlpool warranty?

Only if your washer is still under manufacturer warranty, and only for related components. A lid lock failure doesn't void coverage on the motor or transmission. But if you're out of warranty anyway, this doesn't apply — use aftermarket freely.

Do I need the exact W11394572 part number or will W11032875 work?

W11394572 replaces W11032875, W11543566, AP6973174, and PS12731130. They're interchangeable — Whirlpool updated the part number but the assembly is functionally identical. Check your model number (like WTW7120HC0 or WTW5105HW2) against the compatibility list to confirm fit.

How do I know if the lid lock is actually the problem?

Your washer won't start even with the lid closed. You might hear a clicking sound when you close the lid, or nothing at all. The control panel shows normal otherwise — no error codes, no other obvious failures. Test by manually engaging the lock mechanism while someone watches the control panel. If the lock is broken, it won't register as closed even when it is.