OEM vs Aftermarket 303395 High Limit Thermostat: What $110 Really Buys You

Your Maytag MDG9806AWW just stopped heating. You've traced it to a blown 303395 high limit thermostat. The authorized service center quotes $145 for the OEM part. You find the same part number aftermarket for $33.99. That's a $111 difference — but what are you actually giving up?

I've installed both versions hundreds of times over two decades. Here's what you need to know before you buy.

Quick Answer

For a safety thermostat, the aftermarket 303395 matches OEM performance at 76% less cost. These are simple bi-metal disc thermostats rated at 350°F — there's minimal engineering difference between brands. Unless you're repairing a commercial dryer under warranty, aftermarket makes financial sense.

Side-by-Side Comparison

When OEM Makes Sense

There are legitimate situations where paying $145 for the Whirlpool-branded part is the right call:

• Active warranty coverage. If your dryer is under manufacturer warranty, they'll void it if you install aftermarket parts. Pay the premium or lose your coverage.
• Commercial/multi-unit applications. You're running a laundromat with ten Maytag dryers? The consistency of OEM sourcing matters when you're buying in bulk and need parts interchangeability.
• Insurance claims. Some property insurance requires OEM parts for appliance repairs. Check your policy before ordering.
• You value the branded packaging. Some folks just sleep better with the Whirlpool logo on the box. That's worth something to certain buyers.

But here's the thing: the 303395 high limit thermostat isn't a complex electronic control board. It's a bi-metal disc that opens a circuit when it hits 350°F. The engineering tolerance is wide, and aftermarket manufacturers hit that spec consistently.

When Aftermarket Wins

For most homeowners repairing dryers like the MDG9316AXW, LDG7500ABW, or Crosley CDG4205AWW, aftermarket is the smarter play:

• The $111 savings buys other parts you'll likely need. If your high limit blew, your cycling thermostat or heating element might be next. That price difference covers a backup element.
• Faster shipping. Authorized dealers often don't stock this part — they order it when you call. Aftermarket ships same day from warehouses.
• Identical function. Both versions are normally-closed thermostats that open at 350°F and auto-reset at 250°F. Same mounting holes, same terminal configuration.
• Same failure mode. When these fail, they fail open (safe mode). Whether OEM or aftermarket, you get "no heat" — the symptom that brought you here.

The aftermarket version works in over 50 models across Maytag, Whirlpool, Crosley, Admiral, Jenn-Air, and Amana brands. It replaces part numbers WP303395, AP6007529, 481329, PS11740646, and SET175. That cross-compatibility isn't an accident — it's reverse-engineered to exact OEM specifications.

The Installation Reality

I'll be straight with you: installing either version takes the same 20 minutes. You're removing two ¼" spade terminals and one mounting screw. The aftermarket part doesn't require different tools, special techniques, or crossed fingers.

Both thermostats mount to the blower housing on most Maytag models. Both use the same thermal grease application. Both require the same multimeter test before you button everything up (should read zero ohms at room temperature).

Our Verdict

Buy aftermarket unless warranty or insurance requires OEM. The $111 savings is real money for a part that performs identically in the field. We've seen aftermarket 303395 thermostats run 8+ years in residential dryers — same lifespan as OEM. Put that savings toward a backup heating element or cycling thermostat, because if your high limit failed, those components took the same heat stress.

The peace of mind from an OEM part is psychological, not functional. Both versions will protect your dryer from overheating. Both will fail eventually (usually after 10-15 years or a lint blockage event). Neither is rebuild-able when it does fail.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will the aftermarket 303395 fit my exact Maytag model?

If your model is listed in the compatibility data (MDG9316AXW, MDG9806AWW, LDG7500ABW, MLG23PDHGW, CDG4205AWW, NDG6800AWW, LSG2700W — plus 40+ others), yes. The mounting bracket, screw holes, and terminal spacing are identical to OEM. Check the full model list on the product page to confirm your specific dryer.

How do I know if it's really the thermostat or something else?

Unplug the dryer, access the blower housing, and disconnect both wires from the 303395. Test continuity with a multimeter. At room temperature, you should read 0 ohms (closed circuit). If it reads infinite resistance, the thermostat is blown and needs replacement. If it reads 0 ohms but your dryer still won't heat, the problem is elsewhere — likely the heating element or cycling thermostat.

Can I just bypass the high limit thermostat to test the dryer?

Never bypass a safety thermostat, even temporarily. The high limit prevents fires by cutting power if exhaust temperature exceeds 350°F. Bypassing it risks igniting lint buildup. If you suspect the thermostat, test it with a multimeter. If it's bad, replace it. The $34 part is cheaper than explaining to your insurance company why you defeated a safety device.