Whirlpool Dryer Terminal Block Screw Kit Parts — Models & Compatibility

The terminal block is where your dryer connects to household power — three or four prongs plugging into the screw terminals inside the back panel. When those screws loosen or the block cracks from heat stress, you'll smell burning plastic or lose power completely. This hub covers the 279393 terminal block screw kit, compatible with over 100 Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and KitchenAid dryer models.

Is This the Right Part for Your Model?

Your model number is stamped on a metal tag, usually inside the dryer door opening or on the back panel near the top. Cross-reference it against the compatibility list below. This kit fits both 3-prong and 4-prong configurations — the terminal block itself is universal, but you'll need to match your home's outlet type. If you're converting from 3-prong to 4-prong (or vice versa), you'll also need the appropriate power cord.

About This Replacement Part

The 279393 terminal block screw kit includes the block housing, three brass terminal screws, wire connectors, and mounting hardware. It replaces part numbers AP3020386, 279393D, 279393VP, PS334188, and 3184. The block itself is made from heat-resistant plastic rated for 240V household circuits, with brass screws that handle the full amperage load without corroding. Most failures happen when screws vibrate loose over years of use — the connection arcs, melts the plastic, and eventually trips your breaker or stops heating entirely. If you've ever opened the back panel and seen blackened plastic around the terminal area, that's arcing damage. This kit gives you a fresh start with tight connections and intact insulation.

Why Whirlpool Owners Replace This Part

Terminal blocks fail for two main reasons: vibration and heat cycling. Every time your dryer runs, the motor vibrates slightly — over thousands of cycles, terminal screws can work loose. Once there's even a tiny gap, electricity arcs across it, generating intense heat that melts the block. The second culprit is thermal expansion. The block heats up during operation and cools down after, causing the plastic to expand and contract. After years of this, cracks form around the screw posts, compromising the connection.

Installation Overview

You'll need a quarter-inch nut driver, flathead screwdriver, and about 20 minutes. Unplug the dryer first — you're working with 240V connections that can kill you if energized. Remove the rear access panel, disconnect the old power cord from the worn terminal block (note wire positions), unbolt the block from the dryer frame, and reverse the process with your new kit. Tighten terminal screws firmly but don't overtighten — you'll crack the new block. Once installed, wiggle each wire to confirm solid contact before closing up and testing.

Compatible Whirlpool & Kenmore Dryer Models

This terminal block kit fits the following models. If your model isn't listed, contact us with your full model number for compatibility confirmation.

• 10686294140 — Kenmore
• 10686294340 — Kenmore
• 10686294540 — Kenmore
• 10686294740 — Kenmore
• 10686294840 — Kenmore
• 10687884100 — Kenmore
• 10687884600 — Kenmore
• 110.6007299 — Kenmore 110 Series
• 110.6085299 — Kenmore 110 Series
• 110.6090199 — Kenmore 110 Series
• 110.6090299 — Kenmore 110 Series
• 110.6092299 — Kenmore 110 Series
• 110.6093299 — Kenmore 110 Series
• 110.6094299 — Kenmore 110 Series
• 11086294840 — Kenmore

This kit also fits select Maytag, KitchenAid, and Whirlpool-branded dryers. Full compatibility list available at checkout.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I reuse the old terminal screws?

Not recommended. The brass screws corrode and lose their spring tension over time. New screws ensure proper contact pressure and reduce arcing risk.

Do I need to replace the power cord too?

Only if the cord insulation is melted or wires are frayed. If the old block damaged the cord ends, trim back to clean wire and reattach. If you're switching outlet types (3-prong to 4-prong), you'll need a new cord with the correct plug configuration.

Why does my dryer keep tripping the breaker after replacing the block?

Check for loose wire strands shorting against the dryer frame, overtightened screws cracking the new block, or incorrect wire placement. The center terminal is always neutral (white wire), with hot leads on the outer terminals. Ground wire (green or bare copper) connects to the dryer frame, not the terminal block itself on 4-prong setups.