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Frost-blocked evaporator coils prevent cold air from circulating to the fresh food section. A failed defrost heater allows ice to accumulate unchecked, cutting off airflow.
Excessive ice forming on the back wall or evaporator coils of the freezer is a classic sign that the defrost heater is no longer activating during automatic defrost cycles.
If the auto-defrost system fails to clear ice from the evaporator fins, the root cause is typically a burned-out defrost heater element showing open circuit on a continuity test.
When ice completely blocks the evaporator, even the freezer temperature begins to rise as the fan can no longer move air across the coils efficiently.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Tell If Your Defrost Heater Has Failed
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Thick frost or ice buildup covering the back wall of the freezer compartment
⚠️ Refrigerator section is warm but freezer still seems cold
⚠️ Evaporator fan is running but no cold air circulates to the fridge side
⚠️ Multimeter shows open circuit (no continuity) across heater terminals at room temperature
🔬 Quick bench test: disconnect the heater and measure resistance with a multimeter. A reading of approximately 22 ohms at room temperature indicates a good heater. An open (OL / infinite) reading confirms the heater element has failed and must be replaced. Always rule out the defrost thermostat (WR50X10068) and evaporator thermistor (WR55X10025) as well — all three components work together in the defrost circuit.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly (120V, 725W, single quartz tube, 12-1/8" length)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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